Archive for the 'Articles' Category

The Thin Line Between Reality and a Lie

Since its inception, photography has been used to inform, spark debate, and conjure emotions. Single photographs have been used as catalysts for change in foreign policy and in some cases, war. If no photos of the destruction on September 11th, 2001 were published, would we currently be fighting the war in Iraq? If a photo is worth a thousand words, how many words is it worth if the photo has been retouched? Today, more than ever, this needs to be kept in mind as the ease of digital photo manipulation has become all too tempting. Only a few quick adjustments can make a spectacular photograph out of an ordinary image. Read more »

Alternative Processes | Making Inkjet Negatives | Part I - Introduction

process, originally uploaded by brad|gillette.

While many alternative photographic processes date back to the beginning of the last century, there are a few that are still in their infancy. The advances in digital photo editing and inkjet printing have introduced us to a whole new world of hybrid processes, using both traditional film and darkroom based photography in conjunction with these new digital tools. Most notable of these processes is the creation of negatives from a digital file. These digital negatives are produced by manipulating a source image digitally, whether it is scanned film or from a digital camera, and printing it on a transparent or opaque material for contact printing in a traditional darkroom. Just about anybody can print a decent quality photo from their inkjet printer, and many of you know your way around the darkroom quite well, so it would seem that bringing the two processes together would be a simple task. This couldn’t be any farther from the truth.

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Digital vs. Film | A student’s perspective

The Photographers, originally uploaded by brad|gillette.

 

In 1949, when Bocour Artists Products marketed the first acrylic-based paints, many artists were eager to experiment with this new medium. Although they were easier to work with, were much more durable, and easier to clean up, the artists themselves and the schools in which they were taught never gave up on traditional oil-based paint. The recent technological advances in digital photography have caused many photographers to shelve their old film-based Nikons and Hasselblads for the ease and instant gratification of digital photography. This ease and instant gratification has also resulted in more and more people who always wanted to try photography but never had the time, indulging in photography as a hobby. It’s hard to see a downside to this, as it has spurred growth in the photography community, given struggling photo companies new customers, and increased enrollment in photography schools. The downside is there though, and it is affecting those who still remain true to film and have not given into the hype of digital. Film and the necessary chemicals for development have become harder to find and have risen in price, more and more lenses are being designed only for digital, and worst of all – colleges and photography schools, such as Grand Rapids Community College, are replacing traditional film based courses with digital alternatives. While each format has it’s own unique benefits, there is still no substitute for the clarity, tonal range, and aesthetics that silver-based film photography offers.

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Alternative Processes | Polaroid Transfers

Polaroid Transfer | 7, originally uploaded by brad|gillette.

“The Polaroid image transfer process relies on the ability of dyes in the Polaroid emulsion to migrate to an alternative receiver surface during the development process. The “normal” Polaroid process is interrupted and the “negative” is placed on another material (usually paper). The dyes that will form the image are encouraged to transfer by the use of heat and pressure. This process was accidentally discovered when a Polaroid negative was left sitting on a lab counter, according to legend!”

- AlternativePhotography.com

More information on Polaroid Transfers:

- Alternative Photography

- SilverPrint

- Sara Wichlacz

- Brad Gillette

Alternative Processes | Sabatier

Alternative Processes | Sabatier, originally uploaded by brad|gillette.

The Sabatier process is often mistakenly referred to as “solarization.” In actuality, these are both distinctly different processes. Solarization occurs while the film is still in the camera. It results when film is overexposed to the point that the silver halide crystals have been completely saturated with light, which means it has reached “gamma infinity”. When this occurs, the crystals with the most exposure begin to reverse themselves. A good example of this is in a print where while everything else appears normal, the sun is a deep black. The Sabatier process however, is done entirely during the printing stage, with no special exposure of the film necessary. In the simplest of terms, it is when you re-expose the paper with light halfway through the development process. This results in the darker areas of the final print being rendered as normal, while the lighter areas are reversed.

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Rollei R3 Tests Update

Flash Bulb, originally uploaded by brad|gillette.

I have been experimenting with Rollei’s R3 black and white film, and have so far developed two rolls. One at ISO 200 in their Low Speed Developer, and the other at ISO 400 in their High Speed Developer (Amalco AM-74). So what are my initial impressions?

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Spam Blogs

Going through the stats of this blog and seeing where people are coming from, I noticed that Docksidepress searched for photos of his that were blogged on others blogs. Lo-and-behold, there were a few spam blogs using his photos on their sites. I’ve ran into this myself with photos from my sewer backup. But what can you do about it?

Now, at this point, I need to make two things clear..disclaimers if you will.
1) By sending a photo to the grand rapids flickr group and allowing blogging, you are letting us use that photo on this blog, either through the flickr widget, as a pick of the day, or for articles. If we have done this and you DON’T want us to use that photo, PLEASE let us know and we will remove it immediately.
2) I am not a lawyer , nor do I claim to be, so take this advice with a grain of salt. If someone is a lawyer and wants to correct this for me, please let me know.

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Point and Shoot or an SLR? Part 2

The SLR.The single-lens reflex (SLR) is a type of camera that uses a movable mirror placed between the lens and the film to project the image seen through the lens onto a matte focusing screen. Most SLRs use a roof pentaprism or penta mirror to observe the image via an eyepiece, but there are also other finder arrangements, such as the waist-level finder or porro prisms.

The shutter in almost all contemporary SLRs sits just in front of the focal plane. If it does not, some other mechanism is required to ensure that no light reaches the film between exposures. For example, the Hasselblad 500C camera uses an auxiliary shutter blind in addition to its in-lens leaf shutter.

This feature separates SLRs from other cameras, as the user sees the image as it would be captured. This aids in accurately knowing the image beforehand.
Since the technology became widespread in the 1970s, SLRs have become the main type of camera used by dedicated amateur photographers and professionals.

So what makes the SLR the main type of camera used by professionals? Ease of use, the ability to change lenses, being able to see what your photo will look like through the lens, the ability to control what happens….the list goes on and on, so I’ll stick with the main points.

Ease Of Use

SLR’s might look confusing, but they are actually very simple. You choose what lens you need - a lens that has been designed to do what you need it to do - you set up or find your lighting, you set your aperture for the effect you want, set your shutter to compensate for your aperture, and press the shutter button.

Does that still sound complicated? Its really not. Today’s SLRs and dSLRs (Digital SLRs) now include an Auto Mode that works just like a point and shoot, yet still gives you the ability to decide what kind of special lens is needed to get that photo that you want.

For myself, I primarily keep it on Aperture Priority Mode. I like choosing what will be in focus and will not, and primarily stick with a large aperture (large aperture = low number, 1.8, 2.8, etc.) so I can separate the main subject from the background. We’ll cover that in a future article.
Lenses

From wide angle, to “normal”, to extreme telephoto, the ability to switch lenses is enough to warrant the purchase of an SLR, which can now be purchased for the price of a medium / high quality point and shoot. But there is an investment to be made. One problem with SLR’s is that lenses arn’t compatible among the major brands. You won’t be able to fit a Canon lens onto your Nikon or Sony body, nor will you be able to put your Nikkor lens on your Canon or Pentax body. Nikon (Nikkor lenses), Canon, Sony, Pentax, and all the other brands have their own standard for their lens mounts making switching from one to another a near impossible task unless your made of money. Once you’ve invested in a particular brand, that’s the brand you’re going to stay with unless you REALLY want to switch. And within the brands, there are often different kinds of lenses made for different types of cameras. Nikon has been good with this, and any lens made in the last 60 years will at least mount to the Nikon body, though you might just loose your exposure and auto-focusing ability. Canon on the other hand has changed their mounts quite often and in a few cases, a lens you bought for your canon film body might not mount onto your digital body.

WYSIWYG

(The ability to see what your photo will look like before you shoot.)

The older point and shoot cameras had a little window on the front, and when you looked through the viewfinder you were looking through that little window. You didn’t see exactly what the camera was going to see, and this was a major problem for pro photographers. Nowadays when you look through the viewfinder of an SLR camera, you are looking through the lens seeing the exact same image that your film is going to see.

Control

A lot of the modern point and shoot digital cameras nowadays give you the option of changing the shutter speed and/or aperture, but that’s about as far as it goes. The higher end point and shoot models will give you even more options to take control of your photography, but are still limited. SLR cameras are exactly the opposite. Instead of making everything automatic and then adding in manual features, they give you complete manual control right from the start. In addition, as the prices of SLRs have dropped the manufacturers have started adding consumer friendly automatic features.

Realistically, there are only three basic settings that you need to watch - shutter priority, aperture priority, and manual priority. Of course you also need your aperture ring or dial, and your shutter dial or knob. That’s it. Everything else is just fluff and any kind of effect can be achieved using these three settings, along with the focus ring.

These days the higher end point and shoots are becoming more and more like their SLR brethren, while the lower end SLR’s are dumbing down more and more to become their point and shoot cousins. Either kind of camera will function for you, just know what your needs are so you can make a wise decision before you buy.

There are many many other kinds of cameras that I’ll write about later, including Polaroids, large format, medium format, rangefinders, video cameras, cell phone cameras, toy cameras, 3-D cameras, etc. As long as light is hitting a form of film or a light sensor, it is a camera.

I really hope that these two articles have helped you with your camera decision or helped you understand more about your camera choices. These articles are not perfect and I will be editing them along the way as my knowledge about cameras continues to grow.

Use the comments section of the blog — If you have noticed any mistakes, please let me know, if you want to debate, let me know as well, we’ll make it public, and a good debate is always good. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask, that’s what I’m here for.

~Chad

Why is it called “unsharp mask” when it sharpens?

Written by FD on Photododo

A brief history lesson about an image sharpening method called “unsharp mask.” Photoshop and other image manipulation software all have a feature with this name that will sharpen an image. So, why is it called unsharp mask?

The name comes from the original photographic procedure used to increase the apparent sharpness of a photograph on film. First the original negative was copied and turned into a positive (In a negative, black is white and white is black. In a positive, it’s the other way around.). During the copy, the positive was intentionally blurred. This is where “unsharp” comes from. Then the positive and negative were put in contact and exposed to light again. The blurry portion of the positive cancelled out (masked) the blurry portion of the negative.

Despite working with bits instead of film, digital unsharp mask works similarly by comparing the source image to a slightly blurred version and subtracting one from the other.

Source: Wikipedia

Point and Shoot or an SLR? Part 1

So which one is best? Both.

Then why write about this? Well, they both play their own rolls (no pun intended) in the world of photography.

In one corner you have the point and shoot camera, the staple for every family. You put your film or memory card in the slot, point at what you want to take a picture of and hit the shutter button. Simple.

In the other corner is the SLR, the staple for every professional photographer and a lot of amateurs. You choose your film, choose your lens or lenses, grab your flash, point at what you want to take a picture of, zoom in or out, focus either manually or automatically, make sure your shutter speed and aperture are correct, then press the button. Simple.

Your reaction after reading the above paragraphs will either be “Then why would I want an SLR?” or “Then why would I want a point and shoot?” Each of these tools does the same job very differently, you just have to decide which is best for you.

Point and Shoot

In the first part of this article we will be looking at the point and shoot style of cameras. First of all, what is a point and shoot camera? The simplest description is a camera that simply requires that you to point the camera at what you want to take a picture of and press the shutter button. But for the sake of this article, a point and shoot camera is any camera other than a single lens reflex camera (here on out called an SLR) or a rangefinder.

Millions of point and shoot cameras are sold each day. You can find some type of point and shoot for sale at almost any store, from your local camera boutique to your local drug store. Search your local thrift shop and you’ll find them selling for a buck a piece.

These cameras are a staple for one reason: they are incredibly simple to use and they’re getting easier every year. You use to have to decide whether you needed to use a flash or not, but now the camera decides. You used to have to compose your shot before you pressed the shutter button if you wanted that perfect “Kodak moment”, not anymore.

Yesterday’s point and shoots where nothing more then glorified pinhole cameras. In the old days when film was used they simply opened a very small hole in combination with a flash to produce a picture. The shutter speed was a constant speed (in most cases 1/60th of a sec) and the aperture was extremely small (in most cases around f/16) and that’s how they managed their “auto-focusing”, by using a small aperture (for more explanation, please wait for the upcoming article “F YOU!“).

Today’s cameras automatically look at the picture your taking as you press the shutter button, compare it to millions of digital examples in a database of photo scenarios to determine the best shutter speed and aperture for that setting, decide if you need a fill flash, a background flash, a red-eye pre-flash, a slow-sync flash, or any of the other types of flashes that cameras can do these days… make the changes, and expose the digital sensor - all within a millisecond as you press the button. Many of the newer point and shoot cameras will even help you compose the image by displaying suggestions in your viewfinder. All of this work goes into helping you get the best possible shot every time.

But that’s not all. The latest point and shoot models are also coming out with better lenses that allow for massive telephoto shots, some in the neighborhood of 12x. These normally resemble a full SLR camera, with the difference being that the lenses are not removable. They come with image stabilization, high mega-pixel numbers, and a bunch of auto modes. For about 80% of the population, these cameras offer everything they need in a camera, and very often more than they need.

What are the benefits of a point and shoot? In most cases, a smaller form factor is their most attractive feature. Most of these cameras are so small that you can slip them into your shirt pocket and go about your day. Also, point and shoot cameras are increasingly offering more and more reach with their lenses, which allows you to take a photo of your kids playing soccer without having to chase after them. Along with the increase of their telephoto abilities comes the ability to stabilize that lens so you get sharp photos.

My favorite use for a point and shoot camera is getting those intimate moments. Sticking an SLR in someone’s face can intimidate your subject. Want to do some street photography? Leave the SLR behind unless you’re good and aren’t afraid of being challenged. Instead, grab your point and shoot! No one cares about them, they don’t see you as a professional, and that leads to more chances to take intimate photos. In reality, there is only one kind of camera that will get you really amazing street photography, but that’s another article.

So then what is the biggest pitfall of the point and shoot? For me, it is a lack of wide angle. Want to take a picture of the setting sun on the beach in Hawaii? Stand back. Get off the beach, then you might be able to get the beach in the picture. Also, the image quality is lacking compared to even the older digital SLR models. This is due to the über-small image sensor. That also means high noise in low light.

In the end, if your a beginner to photography and don’t have aspirations of becoming a professional photographer, a point and shoot will suite your needs very well. Just make sure that you test the camera before you buy it. Bug the people at the counter - that’s what they get paid for - but don’t expect them to be able to answer all your questions. For that, head down to your local camera store (in the Grand Rapids area we recommend Norman Camera, Marks Photo and Video, or The Camera Center) and pick their brains.

Next time: Point and Shoot or an SLR? Part 2: SLR